Borkum – where the wind tells stories
- nadimagic
- Apr 22
- 13 min read
There are places that are more than just a travel destination. Places that don't feel like a vacation, but like taking a deep breath.Borkum is exactly such a place. For me, this island is far more than just a patch of North Sea between sky, sand, and sea. Borkum is a piece of home. A place full of memories and moments that are deeply etched into my soul.
A few facts:
Borkum is the largest of the East Frisian islands, with an area of approximately 31 km².
It is Germany's westernmost island in the North Sea and lies directly near the Dutch border.
Borkum is famous for its low-pollen, iodine-rich sea air and thus for its year-round maritime and therapeutic climate.
Seals regularly live on the sandbanks around the island, a real highlight.
The island lies within the Wadden Sea, a UNESCO World Heritage Site and one of Europe's most impressive natural landscapes. Only about 4,000–5,000 people live on the island year-round, but hundreds of thousands of visitors arrive during peak season.
My fondest childhood and youth memories are of Borkum
I spent many weeks of my childhood and youth here. With my family. With my grandparents. And with this special feeling of peace and of having arrived.
My grandmother's father was a fisherman – and that's precisely why my fondest memories aren't just of the sea, but also of a kitchen table. When I was a child, my grandparents always brought North Sea shrimp straight from the fishing boat. Later, we would all sit together in the kitchen and peel them by hand.
For me, it worked according to a very simple principle back then: peel one, eat one.
There might not have been much left for the bread roll in the end, but that was never the point, at least that's what I realized later. It was the togetherness. That warm, genuine feeling of family. Moments that have stayed with me to this day.
In my youth , we would go around the houses with holidaymakers and locals from Borkum, take trips, go for cappuccino, cycle across the island or go surfing.
Many of them have since moved to the mainland for work. And yet, Borkum remains one of those places everyone loves to return to.
Even the journey there is magical.
The feeling doesn't begin on the island. It begins on the ferry. As the ship or catamaran glides across the water, the salty North Sea air fills your nostrils, and everyday life is already forgotten somewhere behind you on the mainland.
With every kilometer, you get that feeling of freedom back. The ferry sails past the offshore wind farm towards the outer harbor. And then you see it in the distance:
The new lighthouse . Almost as if it were greeting you and had been waiting for you. Less than twenty minutes to go and you're finally back on your island.
Just take a deep breath.
I don't know how you'd feel, but for me, Borkum is like a reset button. The wind lets you breathe freely, but even more so, it clears your mind. Everything that came before is suddenly forgotten. A stillness settles within you. I can't really explain it, but you have the feeling that you can reorganize your thoughts. The stress slowly subsides, and you reconnect with yourself.
And that, besides the healing climate, is perhaps the greatest treasure of this island. Borkum is rugged. Sometimes stormy. Honestly Nordic. And beautifully unpretentious. You don't need grand displays here. It 's these little moments that stay with you. The cries of the seagulls in the morning. The first coffee with a view of the sea. Walking barefoot through the still-cool sand.
The island lives in rhythm with nature.
On Borkum, nature sets the pace. The tides dictate the rhythm. The wind tells its own stories. The sky changes its colors almost every minute.
Sometimes dramatic in deep grey, and sometimes in a luminous blue that stretches to the horizon. The sunsets bathe the island in a fascinating play of colors: purple, blue, and warm orange tones – it is precisely this special mix that makes Borkum so unique.
At night, if you leave the window open, you can hear the steady sound of the sea and see the beam of light move across the island. It is precisely this tranquility that ensures a truly restful sleep.
The beaches are endlessly expansive. Perfect if you want to take a long walk by the sea. Between dunes, small paths, and quiet corners, the island reveals its own unique character.
North Beach
The north beach is the livelier and more traditional beach area and is very well equipped, especially for families or a relaxing day at the beach. There is a children's playground right near the beach.
You will also find various rental options for windsurfing, kitesurfing , or beach buggies , which makes the beach attractive for the sports enthusiasts among you.
South Beach
The south beach is a bit quieter and offers plenty of space to relax by the water. Here, too, you'll find sections of beach with good infrastructure and plenty of places to unwind for a few hours. Its more sheltered location is particularly pleasant, often making it feel quieter than the north beach. You can bring your dog here, as this section of the beach is designated for dogs. From April 1st to July 15th, dogs must be kept on a leash throughout the island (breeding and nesting season). Outside of this period, dogs are allowed to run free in designated dog-friendly areas.
But Borkum is more than just a beach.
Between dunes, narrow paths, and charming corners, the island reveals its unique character. Cycling here is almost a way of life. Past grasses swaying in the wind, along the coast, and into quiet stretches of nature where suddenly the only sound is the sea.
A delicious stew or coffee during a visit to the beach
Along the entire beach area, there are several kiosks and small beach restaurants where you can get a hot meal at lunchtime or grab drinks and snacks – perfect for a break between sunbathing, walking, and enjoying the sea. Toilets and other convenient facilities are also available, so you can easily spend a whole day here.
Beach bar No. 5 on the south beach is actually a good spot at any time of day.
During the day, everything here is relaxed and uncomplicated. You come from the beach, quickly grab something to eat or drink, and simply sit outside. No fuss, just exactly what you want at the seaside.
What you can generally find here:
Coffee, cold drinks and small snacks for in between
Cake or something sweet for the classic beach break
savory items like tarte flambée, burgers, or simple hot dishes
Many people simply stay longer than planned – first a coffee, then maybe something to eat, and finally a drink. The view of the sea just makes it hard to get up again.
After a long walk or a few hours in the sun, there's nothing better than a fresh waffle, a slice of apple pie, or perhaps even a really good piece of cream cake. Add a coffee or cappuccino with a view of the sea – simple, but that's exactly what makes it special. Many beach bars and small cafés focus on uncomplicated, fresh offerings, often with a regional touch.
In the evenings, the beach takes on a completely different atmosphere – and you notice that at the restaurants too. Many beach bars become a bit more "cozy": fairy lights come on, the wind dies down, and instead of a quick snack, you simply linger. Perfect for a relaxing end to the day.
My TOP 18 sights & highlights on Borkum
The island's landmark – climb it and you'll have this incredible view over dunes, beach, and the North Sea. It's 60.30 meters high and offers a unique panorama. However, to get to the top, you first have to conquer 308 steps. A good workout, indeed!
Admission prices:
Adults aged 14 and over: €4.00
Children aged 4 and over: €2.00
#2 The endless beaches & promenade
Wide sand, beach chairs and the feeling that everything slows down a bit here.
The swimming pool, spa, and sauna area is located directly in the dunes and offers a breathtaking view of the beach and the North Sea. This is precisely what makes a stay here so special.
What you'll find there:
Panoramic sauna with North Sea view
Finnish outdoor sauna
Aroma sauna
steam bath
large roof terrace / sun deck
the famous foot reflexology path “Fautpadje”
You can find the admission prices here.
#4 Climbing Park / High Ropes Course Directly behind the Gezeitenland spa, you'll find the climbing park, which is only for the brave. The wind makes it quite challenging to swing between the different stations. It's perfect for anyone who wants a bit of adventure between the beach and wellness activities. You can find the opening times on the website I've linked above.
Entrance fees (climbing time 2.5 hours):
Child 6-12 years €19.00
Young people aged 13-17 years: €21.00
Adults aged 18 and over €24.00
Pupils (18 and over)/students/islanders with ID: €2 discount
#5 The small dune sauna / beach sauna on the nudist beach. Nestled in the dunes, right on the nudist beach, stands this small Finnish beach sauna with a sea view . The unique feature: After your sauna session, you simply walk barefoot through the sand and jump directly into the North Sea to cool off. This experience is what makes it so special. It was set up seasonally – usually from May until September – and was an absolute cult spot on the island for many years.
#6 Windsurfing on Borkum
Borkum is indeed a really good spot for windsurfers and kitesurfers . Its location in the North Sea often provides consistent winds , making the island particularly attractive for all surfing enthusiasts.
Especially in summer, conditions often range from 3 to 7 Beaufort , ideal for various skill levels.
#7 Sun terraces on the south beach
The sun terraces on the south beach are perfect for sitting sheltered from the wind, enjoying the sun longer, and relaxing with a sea view while having something to eat or drink. They are free and open to everyone. The benches are in high demand – so grab an empty one when you spot one.
#8 North Sea Aquarium A great spot to experience the North Sea up close. It offers a compact but exciting glimpse into the underwater world with native fish species, information about the Wadden Sea, and clearly designed tanks.
Admission prices:
Relatively inexpensive: €6–8 for adults
Kids 3–5 € (subject to change depending on the season).
#9 The Borkumriff lightship is a maritime highlight steeped in authentic island history and a fantastic setting for storytelling, especially if you're planning to get married. Every third Friday of the month, the ship transforms into a civil registry office complete with an elegant officers' mess. The perfect place to sail into the safe harbor of matrimony.
Admission prices:
Currently: Adults €6.50 (Independent ship exploration)
Children/Youth (6-17 years) €3.00 (free for children up to 5 years old)
Family (2 adults with up to 4 children) €16.00
Opening hours: November 1, 2025 to March 18, 2026
Tuesday, Thursday and Saturday; each day from 10:45 am to 4:15 pm, last admission at 3:30 pm.
A fascinating glimpse into the island's history, from whaling to its current status as a seaside resort. The museum is housed in an old whaler's cottage and showcases much of the island's past – primarily whaling, seafaring, and life on Borkum in earlier times. It also complements the whale bones displayed outside the Old Lighthouse perfectly – thematically, it all fits together.
In short: You have a lighthouse, whale bones and a local history museum almost all in one place – a small historical island cluster right in the middle of town.
Admission prices:
Adults: 6.00 euros
Children aged 6 to 15: 3.50 euros
Family ticket: 14.00 euros
#11 Greune Ste
A tranquil, unspoiled forest and dune area in the west of the island – a true contrast to the hustle and bustle of the beach. Here, narrow paths wind between pine trees, dunes, and small clearings, often creating an almost mystical, sheltered atmosphere.
The Greune Stee is ideal for walking or cycling, especially if you're looking for some peace and quiet or simply want to experience the island's natural beauty away from the beach promenade. With a bit of luck, you might even spot deer or rabbits, which feel right at home here. On your way to the harbor, you'll pass the beehives that produce the island's honey, nestled well-protected between the forest and dunes. The bees collect nectar from the typical island vegetation, giving the honey its slightly salty, wild North Sea character. This perfectly complements the overall atmosphere: tranquil, unspoiled, and a little bit hidden.
#12 Ride the miniature train
With the Borkum "Bimmelbahn" (miniature train) you can also take a nice round trip to the harbor and back – a relaxed tour through the island, with short stops and the feeling of experiencing Borkum completely at mini-tempo.
Fares:
One-way fare: approx. €3–5 per journey
Round trip / Round trips: often approx. €6–10
Children: usually significantly cheaper (often half price or discounted)
Then there's the island cinema on Borkum, which is open during the main season. It's a cozy cinema right in the heart of the island where you can watch current films in a relaxed atmosphere – perfect for an evening when the weather isn't cooperating. You'll find it in the Kulturinsel (Culture Island) on the upper floor. Outside of the main season, screenings may be very limited – it always depends a bit on the program and demand. It's best to check the island's current cinema schedule shortly beforehand.
#14 Scenic flight & island hopping towards Wangerooge
Seeing Borkum from the air is a truly unique experience – the North Sea islands look simply magical from above. A scenic flight costs €89 and lasts approximately 15 minutes. A flight to Juist, Norderney, Norddeich, Greetsiel, or Emden costs €128.
#15 Grandma's Tea Room
Honestly, it's practically a tourist attraction in itself. A visit there is simply a must – those legendary, giant cream puffs and a pot of real East Frisian tea with cream. It's a true Borkum must-do and perfect for a relaxing afternoon stop after the beach instead of lunch ;). Click here for the website.
#16 Old Lighthouse (De Olde Toorn)
An absolute must-see. The Old Lighthouse is the oldest building on Borkum and even the oldest lighthouse of all the East Frisian Islands . It dates back to 1576 and tells a great deal of island history – of seafaring, whaling and North Sea myths.
Directly in front of the Old Lighthouse lies the historic whalers' cemetery , dating back to the 18th century. Here, sailors and whalers who lived during the North Sea whaling era were buried. Huge whale bones protrude vertically from the ground among the old gravestones.
The mudflat hikes with Peter de Buhr are among the true classics on Borkum if you want to not only see the Wadden Sea, but really experience it.
With him, you'll head out onto the mudflats at low tide – barefoot through the mud. You'll see tidal creeks, small crabs, and mussel beds. He'll tell you a lot about life in the Wadden Sea National Park, the tides, and why this area is so unique.
Prices:
Adults – €10.00
Children aged 4 to 12 inclusive – €7.00
(IMPORTANT – This hike is suitable for children aged 4 and up.)
#18 Riding courses & horseback riding on Borkum
On Borkum, you can take riding lessons and experience the dunes and mudflats on beach or island rides with well-trained horses. The main provider is the Borkum Riding Stable.
Address: Goedeke-Michel-Straße 11, 26757 Borkum (in the dunes, near the water tower)
Prices:
Pony rides: approx. €12–16
Riding lesson (approx. 45 minutes): approx. 35-45 €
Guided horseback ride (approx. 1–1.5 hours): approx. €35–46
Galloping/beach ride (depending on duration): up to approx. €85
Events on Borkum
In summer, Borkum is known for its beach parties, open-air events, and DJ nights at beach bars, where the party goes on until late into the night right by the sea. You can find all the events at a glance here: https://www.borkum.de/veranstaltungen/kategorie/party/
Borkum, a notorious pirate's nest?
In 1400, this was indeed the case. For at that time, the famous pirate Klaus Störtebeker regularly stopped at the East Frisian Islands, including Borkum. Since then, the legendary tale of a hidden treasure has been told. The gold that the island has preserved for centuries is said to be buried among the endless dunes and the rushing North Sea wind. Legend speaks of hidden chests full of gold and jewels, concealed among the sand, wind, and ancient dune paths. No one knows exactly where.
Many stories speculate that it might be hidden in the western part of the island , somewhere behind the dunes of Greune Stee , perhaps even in an area that has been partially "swallowed up" by the rough sea – a submerged part of the old island coastline.
Over the centuries, the dunes have been partially eroded or altered by the sea , adding to the mystique of the legend. The outermost dunes at the southern tip are completely changed, and no one can say for sure what the southern dunes looked like around the year 1400. Störtebeker hid the treasure here shortly before his execution in Hamburg.
A saying has been passed down among the local population: "If the Woldedünen could speak, Borkum would never lack money."
Störtebeker was long known to the East Frisians for his raids. He is said to have made large plunder on the Ems River and his ship repeatedly passed by Borkum during his raids.
Has part of the treasure been found?
No, the treasure has not been found to this day. But there was a truly lucky find nonetheless: While walking on the western beach, a collector discovered a large silver coin (a guldiner) from 1547 , bearing the image of Emperor Charles V and the coat of arms of Regensburg. This coin had been exposed in the sand after prolonged storms and matches a number of similar medieval finds in the area. The coin is now on display in the Borkum Local History Museum.
Anyone strolling across Borkum today can feel its history at every turn: the old lighthouse watches over the whalers' cemetery, the enormous whale bones rise from the sand like silent sentinels, and somewhere in between, so it is said, Störtebeker's prey still awaits its finder, possessing courage, curiosity, and a touch of North Sea magic. You just have to look closely – and maybe feel the wind in your hair – to discover the hint of adventure.
Conclusion
Even if you don't find gold or precious stones on Borkum, the greatest treasure you can find there is a renewed sense of well-being. It's about being able to return to everyday life with a clear mind and a more healed heart.
You feel it within the first few days. If you leave your window open at night, you can hear the surf…and you sleep more deeply. There's something calming about it. When you look out, you see the lighthouse beam. And that's what sears itself into your soul.
The motto on the island's coat of arms reads: "Mediis tranquillus in Undis." So that you may remain calm amidst the waves and billows, even when the surf of life sometimes washes up on your shore.
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